30 days in Laos - trip itinerary
Laos is known as one of the poorest nations in South-East Asia. I had been there twice before and wanted to show Tabea the beauty of this more unknown country.
Luang Prabang
We came from northern Thailand through the border town Chiang Khong to Huay Xai. Straight away we took a night bus from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang which took approximately 12 hours. It costs 145 000kip (~15€). The road is in bad condition and it has countless curves. Bus stopping many times during the night and lights going on and off every single time obviously. AC is super cold so take enough warm clothes! Not a very comfortable way to go. I mean it is just one night so it is definitely doable and not that bad but not good either. If you have time there is another option for you. Take a slow boat from Huay Xai to LP. I’m definitely going to try that next time. This takes 2 days with a stop for the night in some small town by the river.
Many people don’t know that Laos was heavily bombed during the Laos civil war/Vietnam war by Americans. Today there are still lots of unexploded ordnance from the war.
We arrived at LP in the early morning. We had not booked an accommodation so we took a tuk-tuk to the center, and asked around in different guesthouses until we found the best option for us. Tuktuk prices have increased since I was last time here in 2014. You will have to pay 20 000kip (2€) per person to the center which is around 6km away. Luang Prabang is a very chilled vibe, an ex-French colonial city, located alongside the river of Mekong. The highlights of the town are some gorgeous waterfalls, the temple on top of the hill, and the night market. You can take an organized day trip to one of the waterfalls or even bike on your own. Stunning views are guaranteed! But don’t go and walk side paths in the jungle. Many people don’t know that Laos was heavily bombed during the Laos Civil War/Vietnam War by Americans. In the area, there are still a lots of unexploded ordnance from the war. Go check the UXO center to see bombs and to get some terrifying information. One fact I remember for sure is that the amount of explosives they did drop to Laos is that they would have dropped bombs every eight minutes, 24 hours per day for 9 years. Can you believe?! Still weekly there is one who gets killed or injured because of the bombs. Not unlikely it is a poor local kid or an adult who is trying to look for the bombs with cheap metal inspectors to sell the metal.
I would definitely recommend visiting the night market and the food market. The typical French baguettes should not be missed. I also love to drink a beer, Lao, the only beer Tabea would drink, in one of the restaurants on the riverside, walk up to the Buddha hill, or go bowling, either really for bowling or to drink with the other backpackers in the night time. There is also a Red Cross sauna in the town! Something I as a Finnish really enjoyed.
Vang Vieng
The famous tubing paradise. You can take a minivan for around 100 000kip (10€) from LP to VV. It takes 4-6 hours. The road is not in the best condition but neither it is terrible. The views are stunning! It looks exactly just like some of the mountain scenes from the Lord of the Rings!
Get ready for tubing? Even if not there’s no reason to worry. There are some other activities to do as well if you are not interested in floating in the Mekong and drinking beer or laolao.
There is close by a viewpoint where we hiked and climbed up. It’s a pretty steep climb but worth it. Put proper shoes on tho. The scenery with the mountains, rice fields, and the river is spectacular.
You might also want to visit one of the blue lagoons or explore a cave!
Other “activity” we enjoyed doing during our stay was playing cards, watching FRIENDS, and eating great food in Victor’s Place! We loved their Falafel and hummus. Right across the street is a small guesthouse (which also sells cakes). If you are looking for a quiet and cozy place to stay that’s your pick! We can’t remember the name but you will see their cakes on the window opposite side of Victor’s place. We stayed there for 3 nights (100 000kip/ 10€/night) and absolutely loved it. It offers free instant coffee, tea, fruits, and sometimes even homemade delicious cakes!
Don Det, 4000 islands
The way to Don Det is pretty long but you can do it rather comfortably with the night bus.
From Vang Vieng take a bus to Vientiane. If you wish, stay for a night or two. Visit the Buddha park at least and for the “night life” they have a bowling alley. Or if in a hurry take a local bus (number 93) from the center to the southern bus terminal. It is practically free. Costs only 3000kip per person which is ~0,30€. Another option is of course to take a tuktuk for 80 000kip.
When you arrive to the bus terminal there are many counters selling tickets to Pakse which is your next destination if heading to Don Det. All the sleeping buses cost 170 000kip (~17€) We took the first counter and luckily ended up in the best bus ever! Try to find this counter which sells tickets for the CPS company -bus. It is the luxurious way to go with warm blankets, some snacks, soft beds, and enough space for 2.
You will arrive in Pakse in the morning. Either take a tuk-tuk or make a 10-minute walk to the city. You can book your way to Don Det from there. The price is somewhere between 55 000-70 000kip (5,5-7€) and should include a boat from Nagasan pier to DD. Minivans leave from Pakse around 8 a.m. and reach Nagasan 4 hours later. Short boat trip and you will arrive at, Don Det.
On the island there are two sides to stay. Decide either sunrise or sunset side. Keep on the left if want to stay at sunrise or take a path to the right for the sunset.
There is not much to do but relax on the island. Chilling in the hammock, reading, and eating are definitely my favorite activities. There’s a “beach” from where you can swim in the river or even tube. Nothing like tubing in Vang Vieng though. Just slowly floating via the Mekong. They have also two pools to cool down on the island. One close to the pier is 50 000kip/day (5€) and the other one which is further away is 10 000kip. Exploring the island by bike is cheap and a great way to spend a day or two! You can visit the neighboring island Don Khong and its waterfalls at the same time. If you would like to see rare Irrawaddy dolphins you can take a boat from Don Khong to the place where they usually are seen.
From the restaurants, I would recommend Bamboo Cafe & Korean Restaurant for excellent Korean food and Jasmine for delicious and well-priced Indian food. Both are located close to the main pier.
Viva la Laos!
